The key requirement is that the stone can withstand the expected load and the local climate. Laying a stone patio is very similar to tiling a bathroom, where careful preparation and precision are essential for a long lasting result. First the base is prepared, then each stone is levelled individually, and finally the joints are filled.

Step 1: Project planning

Start by sketching the entire project on graph paper. This helps minimise cutting, plan joint placement and estimate how much material you will actually need. Careful planning also makes it easier to control your budget and avoid unexpected costs.

One tonne of stone dust is usually sufficient for a base layer around 2.5 centimetres thick over an area of approximately 60 square metres, or for a base around 7.6 centimetres thick over roughly 23 square metres.

Store delivered materials close to the side of the patio where you will finish the work. This prevents unnecessary movement over already laid stones. Remove all debris before starting. Clearly mark any existing services such as electricity, gas, water or telecommunications.

Step 2: Excavating the base

Begin excavating in the centre of the patio area to determine the required depth. Use the point where the patio meets the house as your reference level. Measure everything carefully, ideally using a laser level.

Compact the excavated base thoroughly with a plate compactor. Mark the corners of the patio with stakes to clearly define the shape and dimensions.

Step 3: Creating the sub-base

Install a sub-base approximately 7 to 10 centimetres thick using a mix of crushed stone and stone dust. In areas that will carry heavier loads, additional reinforcement of the base may be beneficial.

Lightly dampen each layer with water so the dust settles properly, then compact it well. Pay extra attention around walls, paths and foundations. Repeat the process of adding material, dampening and compacting in layers of around 7 centimetres until you are close to the desired height.

Place additional stakes every 50 centimetres between the corner stakes near the house and at the opposite end of the patio. Stretch a string between the stakes to guide the correct slope, ensuring proper drainage away from the building.

Step 4: Preparing the cement bed

In a wheelbarrow, mix one part dry cement with twelve parts stone dust. Gradually add water until you achieve a firm but workable mix. This mixture forms the cement bed beneath the stones.

Choose a starting corner and apply enough mix to lay at least one stone so you can test the result. Level the mix using a rake or hand trowel. Due to their weight, stone slabs will sink around 3 centimetres into the wet bed, so apply slightly more material than the final required thickness.

Step 5: Laying the stones

Repeat the previous step and begin laying the stones. For stones weighing more than 45 kilograms, at least two people are required. Do not attempt to handle heavy stones alone.

Gently twist each stone into place so it beds properly into the cement. Then tap along the edges and centre with a rubber mallet to remove air pockets between the stone and the base.

Tip: Heavy stones can be moved safely by keeping one edge on the ground and slowly rotating the slab, shifting the weight from one edge to another.

Step 6: Levelling the stones

Use a spirit level to check that the edges of each stone align with the surrounding slabs. Then check the slope. The stone surface should sit as close as possible to the guide string without touching it.

If you need to add or remove material, carefully lever the stone up with a spade, adjust the amount of mix underneath and reposition the stone. Repeat this process until the entire patio area is covered.

Leave gaps of 1 to 2 centimetres between stones. Continue checking levels as you work. Brush and rinse the stones before the cement bed begins to set. Allow at least one day for the cement bed to harden.

Step 7: Cutting the stones

Mark the cutting line with a pencil, then score it using a carbide tipped scriber. For straight cuts, use a spirit level as a guide. Raise the stone slightly by placing a piece of timber under the edge to be cut.

Wear safety goggles, hearing protection and a dust mask. Set the saw blade to a cutting depth of around 1 centimetre and make the first pass. Then increase the depth to 2 to 3 centimetres and cut along the line again.

With high quality stone, the initial shallow cut may be enough to snap the slab cleanly. Lower quality stone that is prone to cracking should be fully cut through.

Step 8: Filling the joints and edging

A stone patio does not require edging to keep the stones in place, but edging stones can give the patio a neater and more refined appearance. Once the cement bed has cured, spread stone dust over the surface and sweep it into the joints and along the edges.

Tip: Never fill joints with cement, as it can crack during winter. Avoid using sand, which can attract ants and allow grass or moss to grow.

Step 9: Finishing touches

Lightly spray the joints with a garden hose so the stone dust settles firmly. A masonry trowel can help compact the dust into the joints where needed. Repeat until the joints are solid and flush with the stone surface.

Finally, arrange your garden furniture and enjoy your new stone patio.