Price list 2026 · Europe

Suspended Light Fitting Installation

Installing a suspended light fitting means fixing a pendant light or chandelier, one that hangs on a cable, chain or rod, firmly to the ceiling and connecting it safely to the existing lighting point and switch. You need this when you replace an old fitting, renovate a flat, or buy a new light for over the dining table or in the living ro

Updated 09/2026·6 min read·24 price list items
Standard labour price
11,17 €/ pcs
Indicative range
8,02 € - 25,06 €
Price for this specific task only - excluding materials and preparatory work. Not the price of the whole job.
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Electrical installation24 items

All prices shown exclude VAT. Labour price covers labour only. Price incl. materials adds sundry materials (adhesive, primer, sealants, fixings). Tiles, flooring, paint and sanitaryware are chosen and bought by the client and are not included.

ItemUnitPrice / unitQuantityTotal
Electrical works
Install pendant light fittingpcs-
Data cabling installation (FTP)pcs-
230V socket outlet point - first fixpcs12,03 €-
Switch point - first fixpcs12,03 €-
Lighting point - first fixpcs14,03 €-
230V socket / switch - second fixpcs5,00 €-
Pulling power cable (up to 3x2.5)lm1,50 €-
Pulling data/comms cable (FTP, coaxial)lm1,20 €-
Chasing for cable - brick / aerated concretelm5,80 €-
Chasing for cable - concrete / panellm8,02 €-
Making good walls after electrical installationlm5,40 €-
Install and connect consumer unitpcs150,35 €-
Connect 1-phase circuit breakerpcs8,02 €-
Connect RCD (Residual Current Device)pcs12,03 €-
Install and connect doorbellpcs25,06 €-
Connect and fit room thermostatpcs20,05 €-
Install LED strip with aluminium profilelm12,03 €-
Installation of recessed spotlight in plasterboard ceilingpcs18,04 €-
Install wall-mounted light fittingpcs14,03 €-
Install and connect extractor fan (bathroom/WC)pcs-
TV / data socket point - first fixpcs12,03 €-
TV / data socket - second fixpcs8,02 €-
Professional connection of 400V hobpcs-
Install external LV connection to flatpcs-
Total labour
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How the installation is done, step by step

When a fitting is replaced in the same position, the job usually follows a clear sequence. The electrician works in this order:

  1. Switches off the relevant circuit breaker and uses a voltage tester to confirm the lighting point is dead.
  2. Removes the old fitting: shades, bulbs, cover, connectors and the original bracket.
  3. Checks the wires at the lighting point: the condition of the insulation, what the conductors are made of and whether an earth wire is present.
  4. Assesses the original hook or bracket. It stays only if it is solid and can carry the weight of the new fitting. Otherwise a new fixing suited to the ceiling goes in.
  5. Adjusts the length of the cable, chain or rod to the agreed hanging height.
  6. Connects the live, neutral and earth wires to the terminals and checks that each connection is tight. For a remote-controlled fitting, the receiver also goes in, either in the ceiling box or in the body of the light.
  7. Fits the ceiling rose or canopy, levels the fitting and puts in the bulbs and shades.
  8. Switches the breaker back on and tests every function: the switch, any separate circuits, dimming and the remote.

If the new light is to hang somewhere other than the old one, a new lighting point is needed. That means running a cable in a chase, above a suspended ceiling or in trunking, and sometimes changing the switch as well.

The type of ceiling matters more than you might think

Concrete ceilings

Concrete can carry even a heavy chandelier. The right fixings are metal expansion anchors or plugs rated for concrete, not the thin plastic plugs that come in the box. In blocks of flats, watch out for one thing: precast concrete slabs often have cables and hollow cores running through them. The electrician therefore scans for cables before drilling and positions the hole so the anchor does not end up in a void. If you want a new cable run outside your flat, for example through shared areas, talk to the building management or owners' association first.

Plasterboard ceilings

Plasterboard causes the most trouble. The board alone cannot hold a heavy fitting, especially when the light swings while being cleaned. Lightweight fittings can go on toggle or cavity anchors, within the load the manufacturer states. A heavier chandelier belongs on a supporting ceiling profile, on a timber or metal noggin above the board, or on a threaded rod fixed into the structural ceiling above. If the plasterboard ceiling is still being built, it pays to put the support in beforehand.

Timber ceilings and joists

If the light sits directly under a joist, a sturdy screw into solid timber is enough. Where there is no joist at that spot, a cross board fixed between two joists does the job. In timber ceilings the electrician also makes sure the cable and box are not left loose against combustible material.

Hanging height and position

Why does a light over the dining table hang lower than one in the middle of the living room? Nobody walks over the table, so the fitting can come closer to the surface, light the area where it is needed and still not dazzle anyone. As a rough guide, the bottom of a fitting over a table usually sits around 75 to 90 cm above the tabletop. Where people walk underneath, it should be at roughly 210 cm from the floor or higher, so nobody hits their head.

Over a long table, two or three smaller pendants in a row often look better and spread the light more evenly than one large chandelier. Before the job, measure the room height, the table height and where the table stands in relation to the lighting point. If the point is not centred over the table, the light can be shifted with a decorative ceiling hook or a new lighting point.

What makes the job easier and what makes it harder

The simplest case is swapping a fitting on an existing lighting point in a concrete ceiling of normal height, with old wiring in good order. The work takes more effort and time in these situations:

  • A high ceiling, for example in a stairwell or a house with a gallery, where scaffolding or a tall ladder is needed
  • A heavy or large fitting, such as a crystal chandelier assembled on site from many parts
  • A plasterboard ceiling that needs extra support adding
  • No lighting point at all, or one that has to be moved
  • Old wiring with aluminium conductors, brittle insulation or no earth wire
  • Fittings with remote control, dimming or app control that need setting up and pairing

A common myth says a new chandelier will overload old wiring. Modern LED fittings usually draw less power than old chandeliers with incandescent bulbs. In older homes the real problem is more often the condition of the wires and connections than the load itself.

Typical mistakes when installing a pendant light

  • The fitting hangs on an unsuitable plug that slowly pulls out, especially from plasterboard
  • The original hook stays in place without anyone checking it can carry a heavier fitting
  • The earth wire is left unconnected on a fitting that needs it, or wires are swapped
  • Connections are loose, not fully tightened or uncovered, and simply stuffed into the ceiling rose
  • An old dimmer is not compatible with LED bulbs, so the light flickers or buzzes
  • The light hangs too low or too high, or is not centred over the table
  • Drilling into a concrete slab hits a cable nobody looked for beforehand

The first four mistakes are not just about looks. They can lead to the fitting falling, an electric shock or a fire. For any work on electrical installations the rule is simple: the connection belongs to a person qualified under your local wiring regulations, and in some countries the work must be done or certified by a registered electrician. After an insurance claim, the insurer may ask who carried out the installation.

How to check the finished work

Once the electrician has finished, go through a few points calmly:

  • The fitting holds firm when you pull it gently and the ceiling rose sits flush without gaps
  • The light hangs straight and at the height you agreed
  • No wires or insulation stick out from the cover
  • The switch turns the light on and off correctly, and with several circuits each one works separately
  • Dimming and remote control work smoothly, with no flickering or buzzing
  • The ceiling around the fixing is not cracked and the plasterboard does not sag
  • You have received the instructions and warranty for the fitting and know which bulbs it takes

Frequently asked questions

Swapping a fitting on the existing lighting point usually takes under an hour. With plasterboard that needs support, a chandelier assembled from many parts or a smart fitting that needs setting up, allow several hours.

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