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All prices shown exclude VAT. Labour price covers labour only. Price incl. materials adds sundry materials (adhesive, primer, sealants, fixings). Tiles, flooring, paint and sanitaryware are chosen and bought by the client and are not included.
| Item | Unit | Price / unit | Quantity | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Electrical works | ||||
| Install pendant light fitting | pcs | - | ||
| Data cabling installation (FTP) | pcs | - | ||
| 230V socket outlet point - first fix | pcs | 12,03 € | - | |
| Switch point - first fix | pcs | 12,03 € | - | |
| Lighting point - first fix | pcs | 14,03 € | - | |
| 230V socket / switch - second fix | pcs | 5,00 € | - | |
| Pulling power cable (up to 3x2.5) | lm | 1,50 € | - | |
| Pulling data/comms cable (FTP, coaxial) | lm | 1,20 € | - | |
| Chasing for cable - brick / aerated concrete | lm | 5,80 € | - | |
| Chasing for cable - concrete / panel | lm | 8,02 € | - | |
| Making good walls after electrical installation | lm | 5,40 € | - | |
| Install and connect consumer unit | pcs | 150,35 € | - | |
| Connect 1-phase circuit breaker | pcs | 8,02 € | - | |
| Connect RCD (Residual Current Device) | pcs | 12,03 € | - | |
| Install and connect doorbell | pcs | 25,06 € | - | |
| Connect and fit room thermostat | pcs | 20,05 € | - | |
| Install LED strip with aluminium profile | lm | 12,03 € | - | |
| Installation of recessed spotlight in plasterboard ceiling | pcs | 18,04 € | - | |
| Install wall-mounted light fitting | pcs | 14,03 € | - | |
| Install and connect extractor fan (bathroom/WC) | pcs | - | ||
| TV / data socket point - first fix | pcs | 12,03 € | - | |
| TV / data socket - second fix | pcs | 8,02 € | - | |
| Professional connection of 400V hob | pcs | - | ||
| Install external LV connection to flat | pcs | - | ||
How the installation is done, step by step
When a fitting is replaced in the same position, the job usually follows a clear sequence. The electrician works in this order:
- Switches off the relevant circuit breaker and uses a voltage tester to confirm the lighting point is dead.
- Removes the old fitting: shades, bulbs, cover, connectors and the original bracket.
- Checks the wires at the lighting point: the condition of the insulation, what the conductors are made of and whether an earth wire is present.
- Assesses the original hook or bracket. It stays only if it is solid and can carry the weight of the new fitting. Otherwise a new fixing suited to the ceiling goes in.
- Adjusts the length of the cable, chain or rod to the agreed hanging height.
- Connects the live, neutral and earth wires to the terminals and checks that each connection is tight. For a remote-controlled fitting, the receiver also goes in, either in the ceiling box or in the body of the light.
- Fits the ceiling rose or canopy, levels the fitting and puts in the bulbs and shades.
- Switches the breaker back on and tests every function: the switch, any separate circuits, dimming and the remote.
If the new light is to hang somewhere other than the old one, a new lighting point is needed. That means running a cable in a chase, above a suspended ceiling or in trunking, and sometimes changing the switch as well.
The type of ceiling matters more than you might think
Concrete ceilings
Concrete can carry even a heavy chandelier. The right fixings are metal expansion anchors or plugs rated for concrete, not the thin plastic plugs that come in the box. In blocks of flats, watch out for one thing: precast concrete slabs often have cables and hollow cores running through them. The electrician therefore scans for cables before drilling and positions the hole so the anchor does not end up in a void. If you want a new cable run outside your flat, for example through shared areas, talk to the building management or owners' association first.
Plasterboard ceilings
Plasterboard causes the most trouble. The board alone cannot hold a heavy fitting, especially when the light swings while being cleaned. Lightweight fittings can go on toggle or cavity anchors, within the load the manufacturer states. A heavier chandelier belongs on a supporting ceiling profile, on a timber or metal noggin above the board, or on a threaded rod fixed into the structural ceiling above. If the plasterboard ceiling is still being built, it pays to put the support in beforehand.
Timber ceilings and joists
If the light sits directly under a joist, a sturdy screw into solid timber is enough. Where there is no joist at that spot, a cross board fixed between two joists does the job. In timber ceilings the electrician also makes sure the cable and box are not left loose against combustible material.
Hanging height and position
Why does a light over the dining table hang lower than one in the middle of the living room? Nobody walks over the table, so the fitting can come closer to the surface, light the area where it is needed and still not dazzle anyone. As a rough guide, the bottom of a fitting over a table usually sits around 75 to 90 cm above the tabletop. Where people walk underneath, it should be at roughly 210 cm from the floor or higher, so nobody hits their head.
Over a long table, two or three smaller pendants in a row often look better and spread the light more evenly than one large chandelier. Before the job, measure the room height, the table height and where the table stands in relation to the lighting point. If the point is not centred over the table, the light can be shifted with a decorative ceiling hook or a new lighting point.
What makes the job easier and what makes it harder
The simplest case is swapping a fitting on an existing lighting point in a concrete ceiling of normal height, with old wiring in good order. The work takes more effort and time in these situations:
- A high ceiling, for example in a stairwell or a house with a gallery, where scaffolding or a tall ladder is needed
- A heavy or large fitting, such as a crystal chandelier assembled on site from many parts
- A plasterboard ceiling that needs extra support adding
- No lighting point at all, or one that has to be moved
- Old wiring with aluminium conductors, brittle insulation or no earth wire
- Fittings with remote control, dimming or app control that need setting up and pairing
A common myth says a new chandelier will overload old wiring. Modern LED fittings usually draw less power than old chandeliers with incandescent bulbs. In older homes the real problem is more often the condition of the wires and connections than the load itself.
Typical mistakes when installing a pendant light
- The fitting hangs on an unsuitable plug that slowly pulls out, especially from plasterboard
- The original hook stays in place without anyone checking it can carry a heavier fitting
- The earth wire is left unconnected on a fitting that needs it, or wires are swapped
- Connections are loose, not fully tightened or uncovered, and simply stuffed into the ceiling rose
- An old dimmer is not compatible with LED bulbs, so the light flickers or buzzes
- The light hangs too low or too high, or is not centred over the table
- Drilling into a concrete slab hits a cable nobody looked for beforehand
The first four mistakes are not just about looks. They can lead to the fitting falling, an electric shock or a fire. For any work on electrical installations the rule is simple: the connection belongs to a person qualified under your local wiring regulations, and in some countries the work must be done or certified by a registered electrician. After an insurance claim, the insurer may ask who carried out the installation.
How to check the finished work
Once the electrician has finished, go through a few points calmly:
- The fitting holds firm when you pull it gently and the ceiling rose sits flush without gaps
- The light hangs straight and at the height you agreed
- No wires or insulation stick out from the cover
- The switch turns the light on and off correctly, and with several circuits each one works separately
- Dimming and remote control work smoothly, with no flickering or buzzing
- The ceiling around the fixing is not cracked and the plasterboard does not sag
- You have received the instructions and warranty for the fitting and know which bulbs it takes
Frequently asked questions
Swapping a fitting on the existing lighting point usually takes under an hour. With plasterboard that needs support, a chandelier assembled from many parts or a smart fitting that needs setting up, allow several hours.
Yes, as long as the wires are in good condition and the hook can carry the new fitting. With older installations that have aluminium wiring or damaged insulation, an electrician will often recommend repairing the lighting point or having the circuit inspected.
For a standard fitting, usually not. A new or modified switch is often needed for two separately switched circuits, for dimming an LED fitting or for smart control.
The board on its own cannot. A heavier fitting has to be fixed to a supporting profile, to added support above the board or through the plasterboard into the structural ceiling above. The load capacity of anchors and ceiling is always set by the system manufacturer.
Connecting a light fitting is work on the electrical installation, and it belongs to a qualified electrician. You can prepare the space, measure the heights, choose the fitting and put on the shades after installation.
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