Wallpapering Walls (Vinyl, Non-Woven, Paper)

You will usually come across three types of wallpaper. They differ in look, durability and, above all, in how they are hung.

Non-woven wallpaper

Non-woven is a fleece made from cellulose and synthetic fibres. It is strong, it does not stretch when you hang it, and in most cases the paste goes straight onto the wall. You do not need to paste the back of the paper or leave it to soak, which makes the job much simpler. Non-woven wallpaper lets water vapour pass through well, so it suits living spaces and new builds. Many types can be stripped dry when you redecorate, but check the label to be sure.

Vinyl wallpaper

Vinyl has a top layer of PVC, so it is washable and stands up better to scuffs. It works well in hallways, children's rooms and kitchens, away from direct splashes. In a bathroom, use it only where water does not reach. Vinyl lets less water vapour through, so it does not belong on walls that suffer from damp or mould. Under the wallpaper the problem would only be hidden and get worse. Many vinyl wallpapers today have a non-woven backing and are hung with the paste on the wall. If the backing is paper, you paste the back of the wallpaper instead.

Paper wallpaper

This is the traditional, simple choice for dry rooms. The paste goes on the back, the strip is folded and left to soak so it softens. Wet paper tears easily and stretches a little, so hanging it takes more skill. It is not suitable for damp areas.

Even a beautiful wallpaper looks poor on a bad surface. Every bump shows through, especially with thin or glossy papers.

• Old wallpaper off. Soak it with water and a little washing-up liquid or a wallpaper stripping solution, then lift it with a scraper. Vinyl needs scoring first with a perforating tool, so the water can get under the vinyl layer. A steam stripper helps with stubborn or multi-layered paper.
• Repairs. Fill cracks, holes from wall plugs and chipped areas with filler or plaster, and sand them smooth once dry.
• Flatness check. A long straight edge or spirit level held against the wall shows larger waves. These are smoothed out with a thin skim coat. On slightly uneven walls, lining paper is a common way to get a better base.
• Priming. A primer evens out how much the wall absorbs and binds a dusty surface. Without it, the paste soaks in too quickly in some spots and the wallpaper later lifts there. The primer must dry completely before you hang paper; the manufacturer gives the drying time.

Before hanging, the wall should be smooth, clean, dry and equally absorbent everywhere. Wash greasy patches in the kitchen, otherwise the paste will not hold on them.

A feature wall in non-woven wallpaper is a job a handy homeowner can manage. You will need a smoothing brush or roller, a paste roller, a sharp snap-off knife with a metal straight edge, a spirit level or laser, a tape measure, a pencil, a seam roller and a clean damp sponge. A normal stable stepladder is enough. For work at height, such as over a stairwell, it is wiser to call in a decorator.

1. Switch off the circuit at the consumer unit and loosen or remove the faceplates of sockets and switches.
2. Check that all rolls have the same batch number, otherwise the colour may differ slightly.
3. Mix the paste according to the manufacturer's instructions and let it stand for the stated time.
4. Mark a vertical line for the first strip with a spirit level or laser.
5. Cut the strips with a few centimetres spare at the top and bottom, and with patterned paper follow the pattern repeat, the distance after which the pattern repeats itself.
6. Apply paste to the wall slightly wider than one strip, and no more, so it does not dry out.
7. Place the first strip exactly against the line and smooth it from the centre outwards, working from top to bottom.
8. Butt each following strip tightly against the previous one, without overlapping, and match the pattern.
9. Press the seams with the seam roller and wipe off any squeezed-out paste straight away with a damp sponge.
10. Trim the excess at the ceiling and skirting with a sharp knife along the metal straight edge, snapping off the blade often.
11. Cut openings for sockets and switches, refit the faceplates only once the paper is dry, then switch the power back on.
12. Let the wallpaper dry at a steady room temperature, with windows closed and the heating not turned up high.

The quickest case is a flat wall in a new build that only needs priming, with a non-woven paper without a strong pattern. Time and material go up in these situations:

• Old wallpaper on the wall, especially vinyl or several layers
• Cracked or wavy walls that need filling or skimming
• A large pattern repeat, which means more waste when matching
• Many corners, alcoves, windows, radiators and sockets in the room
• Paper wallpaper, which is delicate to handle
• Papering a ceiling or a sloping loft wall
• A small area, where preparation and clearing up take about as long as the hanging itself

A crooked first strip. Room corners are rarely truly vertical, so the first strip is aligned to a plumb line, not to the corner. Any error grows with every strip that follows.

The wrong paste. Paste meant for paper wallpaper will not hold a heavy vinyl. Use the type the wallpaper manufacturer recommends and stick to the mixing ratio.

Bubbles and creases. These come from poor smoothing or too much paste. With paper wallpaper, small bubbles often disappear as it dries, so there is no need to rush in with a pin. If a bubble stays, prick it with a needle and press the air out.

Open seams. They appear when the paper dries too fast in a draught or with strong heating, or when a paper wallpaper was not left to soak long enough and shrank on the wall.

Ragged edges. A blunt knife tears wet wallpaper. Snap off the blade often, even after just a few cuts.

Wallpaper on a damp wall. If the wall is damp or shows mould, deal with the cause first. Wallpaper does not cure it, it only hides it.

Look at the work in daylight and also with a lamp shining from the side, which shows up unevenness. When you check the job, focus on these points:

• Strips are vertical and the pattern lines up at eye level and near the floor
• Seams are tight, do not lift and the wall does not show through
• No bubbles, creases or dried paste marks on the surface
• Cuts at the ceiling, skirting, windows and doors are straight and clean
• Paper is cut neatly round sockets and switches and the faceplates sit flat
• Paper sits firmly in the corners and does not peel
• All strips have the same shade, with no visible difference between rolls
• Leftover wallpaper from the same batch is kept for future repairs