Angle Standing Seam Facade Cladding

Each metal panel has upturned edges along both long sides. The edges of neighbouring panels are placed side by side and folded over together at an angle. This forms the vertical rib you see on the facade as a thin, crisp line. The panel is held to the substructure by hidden metal clips that sit inside the seam. The metal is never drilled through in the flat area, so water has no way in.

Why an angle seam rather than a double seam? With a double standing seam, the edges are folded twice. The joint is tighter and suits low-pitched roofs, where water lies on the surface for longer. On a vertical wall, rain runs off quickly, so an angle seam is more than enough. It is quicker to form and gives a clean look.

There is also a click system, where the pre-formed edges of the panels simply snap together. It speeds up the work on large, flat walls. On a facade with many windows and corners, though, a traditional folded seam stays more precise.

The metal never sits directly on the masonry. This is a ventilated facade, with an air gap between the insulation and the metal. Air rises through the gap like in a chimney and carries moisture away. The wall stays dry and the risk of mould drops.

1. Panel layout: the installer draws where each panel will go, so that the seams line up symmetrically with windows and corners.
2. Brackets and battens: brackets are anchored into the wall, and a timber or metal framework is fixed to them to bring the wall into a true plane.
3. Insulation: insulation goes between the brackets, usually non-combustible mineral wool.
4. Facade membrane: it protects the insulation from wind and moisture and should be rated for open-joint facades.
5. Ventilation gap: usually at least 20 to 40 mm, with open vents at the bottom near the plinth and at the top near the parapet.
6. Panels and clips: each panel is hooked onto clips that hold it without drilling through the metal.
7. Closing the seam: long runs are closed with a seaming machine, corners and details with hand tools.
8. Details: the parapet, window sills, reveals, plinth and any pipes or vents are finished with matching system pieces.

• Coated galvanised steel: a common, widely available choice. For a facade, a higher-grade coating with better UV resistance is worth it, otherwise the colour on the south side may fade over time.
• Aluminium: light, so it suits renovations where the wall cannot carry much extra load. It expands more than steel with temperature changes, so correct allowance for movement matters even more.
• Titanium zinc: it develops a grey protective patina over time, small scratches blend into it and it needs no painting. In a suitable environment it lasts many decades. Expect a longer delivery time.
• Copper and stainless steel: very durable and striking, but on family homes they are the exception rather than the rule.

Facade sheet is usually 0.6 to 0.8 mm thick. Take care when mixing metals: if water runs off copper onto galvanised steel, galvanic corrosion sets in and the steel deteriorates quickly. Choose metals for one facade so that they work together.

Two facades of the same size can take very different amounts of work. A plain wall without openings goes quickly, as the seaming machine can run along a whole panel in one pass. Every window, corner, recess or opening for a vent or light, on the other hand, means extra hand work.

• Shape of the building: corners, curves and set-back sections need precise forming.
• Number of windows: reveals and sills are among the most time-consuming parts.
• Height of the building: taller buildings need scaffolding. If the roof is being done too, it only has to go up once.
• Condition of the wall: crooked old masonry needs more work to level the framework.
• Panel length: long panels, usually over about 3 m according to the manufacturer, also need sliding clips.
• Weather: in frost the metal is harder to form and some details cannot be done at all.

This is work at height with professional tools, so leave it to an experienced sheet metal installer. If you live in a block of flats, the facade is a shared part of the building and the decision belongs to the building management or owners' association.

The metal itself lasts a long time. Faults are almost always caused by installation that ignores how metal behaves.

• Only fixed clips on long panels: the metal expands in summer, has nowhere to go, and the surface ripples or the fixings pull out.
• Too few clips: their number should follow the wind exposure and the height of the building, not the installer's habit. Otherwise a storm can damage the cladding.
• Blocked or missing ventilation gap: moisture stays in the wall build-up and condenses on the insulation.
• Sealant instead of a proper detail: sealant dries out and cracks. A joint should be solved by the shape of the metal.
• Seam not fully closed: a loose spot in the seam lets wind-driven rain in.
• Poor panel layout: a narrow strip at the corner of the facade cannot be fixed later.

In practice it also happens that a company has good references for roofs but is doing a facade for the first time. Ask to see finished facades and look at them in person.

• Seams are parallel and closed along their full length
• The surface does not ripple when you look along it from the side
• Panels are laid out symmetrically around windows and corners
• Vents at the plinth and parapet are open and protected with mesh
• Window sills have a drip edge that sheds water away from the wall
• Corners and penetrations are finished with system pieces, not sealant
• The metal shows no scratches, dents or leftover protective film
• You have received separate warranties for the material and the installation, plus documents for the metal used