Designer Polyurethane Poured Resin Flooring

This job usually means the complete system: preparing the base, priming, a polyurethane base coat, a decorative layer and a protective top coat. Depending on the system, the total thickness is roughly 2 to 3 mm. That barely raises the floor level, so doors often do not need trimming.

Why polyurethane and not epoxy? Epoxy is harder and suits garages, workshops and storerooms. Polyurethane is more elastic. It gives slightly underfoot, feels warmer to the touch and sounds softer when you walk on it, so it is mainly used in living spaces. Keep your expectations realistic, though. Such a thin layer reduces footstep noise within the room, but it will not stop impact noise reaching the neighbours below. That needs a proper floor build-up with acoustic insulation.

The floor pairs well with underfloor heating, because it is thin and lets heat through easily. Tell the installer about the heating in advance, so they can choose a suitable system and plan how to bring the heating back up afterwards.

In an average room the work usually takes several days, because each layer has to cure. The process looks roughly like this:

1. Assess the base for strength, flatness, cracks and moisture. Moisture is measured with a meter, and the system manufacturer sets the acceptable limit.
2. Grind the surface and remove any old adhesive, paint, oil and grease. Then vacuum everything thoroughly.
3. Repair cracks and damaged areas, and level the base with a self-levelling compound if needed.
4. Apply a primer to strengthen the surface, reduce absorbency and help the next layers bond.
5. Pour the polyurethane base coat at the specified thickness and release trapped air with a spiked roller.
6. Create the decorative layer: a single colour, pigments, a metallic effect or a pattern.
7. Once cured, apply the protective top coat in the chosen sheen, with an anti-slip additive where needed.
8. Respect the curing times. The floor can usually be walked on after about a day, while furniture and full loads have to wait several days, according to the manufacturer.

Keep the room ventilated during pouring and curing, and keep children, pets and sensitive people away. Uncured resin irritates the skin and the fumes are unpleasant. Once the floor has fully cured, it no longer smells.

• Single-colour floor in grey, beige, sand or anthracite. Calm, timeless and the least demanding option technically.
• Metallic effect with a depth that changes with the light. It suits showpiece rooms, but every result is a little unique and hard to predict exactly in advance.
• Pattern or imitation of concrete or stone. It is done by hand on site, so ask to see a sample from the specific installer.
• Matt or satin top coat shows less dust, footprints and fine scratches. In a home with a dog or children it is the more practical choice.
• Gloss top coat looks striking, but it shows every bit of dirt and can be slippery when wet.
• Anti-slip finish makes sense in kitchens, entrance halls and bathrooms.

For a light-coloured floor, ask whether the top coat is UV-stable. Some polyurethanes yellow over time in sunlight, while more resistant systems keep their colour.

The work goes faster and more simply on a large, flat, dry area with no obstacles, such as new concrete or a sound anhydrite screed in a new build. A single-colour surface is also less demanding than a pattern or a metallic finish.

More work is needed with:

• Old tiles that have to be ground, have their joints filled and be levelled
• A crumbly, greasy or damp base
• Awkward spaces with alcoves, thresholds and steps
• Coving up the wall or poured stairs
• A small area, where the preparation and equipment are spread over only a few square metres
• Work in an occupied home, where everything has to be cleared out and protected

In a block of flats, it is a good idea to let the building management or owners' association know in advance, mainly because grinding is noisy. A new floor finish on its own is not normally a building alteration. If you plan to change the floor build-up or touch the structure, though, check the requirements with your local building authority.

• Underestimating the base. Dirt, dust or moisture show up later as bubbles, peeling and cracking. Moisture rising from below is a frequent reason the layer comes loose.
• Wrong thickness or order of layers. A thinner layer is less durable, and skipping curing times leads to blotches and patchy areas.
• Ignoring movement joints. Movement joints in the base must be carried through into the poured layer, otherwise the floor will crack above them.
• Heating left on during pouring. Underfloor heating should be off during application and switched back on gradually after curing, as the manufacturer specifies.
• The wrong finish. A glossy floor without anti-slip in an entrance or bathroom is an unnecessary risk.
• Loading the floor too early. Furniture placed on a floor that has not fully cured leaves marks.

• The surface is continuous, with no bubbles, craters or visible joints
• Colour and sheen are even, with no patches or streaks when you look along the floor in side light
• Edges at walls, door frames and thresholds are neatly finished
• Movement joints are kept and properly filled
• The floor is flat, with no noticeable waves under a straightedge
• The installer has told you which system was used, the loading times and how to bring the heating back up
• You have received cleaning and maintenance advice