Drywall Partition Walls – Single Layer

Both versions use the same frame. Steel U-shaped tracks are fixed to the floor and ceiling, and vertical C studs stand inside them. The cavity between the studs is usually filled with mineral wool. The difference is the number of plasterboard layers.

• Single layer partition: one board on each side, typically 12.5 mm thick. With 75 mm studs the finished wall is roughly 100 mm thick. It is lighter and quicker to build. It suits ordinary room divisions, wardrobes, screens or a study wall, as long as you do not plan to hang heavy items on it.
• Double layer partition: two boards on each side with staggered joints, roughly 125 mm thick with the same studs. It is stiffer, takes knocks better, blocks more noise and holds fixings more securely. It makes sense between a bedroom and a living room, next to a child's room or home office, and wherever kitchen units, a TV or shelving will hang.

Why does a single layer let more sound through? A lighter skin vibrates more easily, so a single layer wall is fine for privacy but will not make a room truly quiet. Whichever version you choose, how carefully the joints to the ceiling, floor and side walls are sealed matters just as much.

Think about the board type as well. Bathrooms and kitchens need moisture-resistant boards, which are often green. Where fire resistance is required, use fire-rated boards and the system the manufacturer specifies.

1. Setting out. The line of the wall and the position of any door are marked on the floor, ceiling and side walls with a laser or spirit level.
2. Floor and ceiling tracks. Sealing tape goes on the back of the tracks. It separates the wall from the floor and ceiling and reduces sound transfer. The tracks are fixed with plugs or anchors suited to the surface. The end studs against the side walls are fixed the same way.
3. Studs. The C studs go into the tracks, usually at 600 to 625 mm centres depending on board width, so every board edge lands on a stud. Door openings get stronger reinforced studs and a header above the opening.
4. Services and noggins. Cables are run and timber or steel reinforcement is fitted where cupboards or a TV will hang, all before boarding.
5. First side and insulation. One side is boarded, then mineral wool goes into the cavity so it fills the space without gaps and without being squashed.
6. Second side. The other side is boarded with screws spaced as the manufacturer recommends, usually around 250 mm apart.
7. Taping and finishing. Joints are filled, reinforcing tape is bedded in, further coats follow and the surface is sanded. External corners get corner beads.

The effort, and therefore the cost, depends mainly on how much is going on in the wall:

• Wall height: taller walls need wider or doubled studs and more handling of boards
• Number of openings: every door, access panel or service penetration means extra framing and precise cutting
• Shape of the room: sloping loft ceilings, alcoves and uneven ceilings mean a lot of cutting
• Board and insulation type: moisture-resistant, fire-rated or high-impact boards are heavier and harder to cut
• Finish quality: a wall for plain matt paint needs less work than one under strong side light or a sheen finish

If you live in a flat, speak to the building management or owners' association before you order the work. Whether anything needs to go to the local building authority depends on local building regulations and on what you change, for example fire escape routes or ventilation. Check with the authority rather than assuming it is always fine.

A simple partition at normal room height is within reach of a handy homeowner. Any electrical work inside the wall must be done by a qualified electrician.

1. Mark the line of the wall on the floor, ceiling and side walls with a laser.
2. Stick sealing tape to the floor and ceiling tracks and to the end studs.
3. Fix the tracks to the floor and ceiling with anchors suited to the surface.
4. Fit the C studs at the spacing set by the board width and check each one with a spirit level.
5. Frame the door opening and add reinforcement where heavy items will hang.
6. Have the electrician run the cables and fit the back boxes.
7. Board the first side, landing every edge on a stud and staggering the end joints.
8. Fit mineral wool into the cavity without gaps and without compressing it.
9. Board the second side, setting the screw heads just below the paper surface without tearing it.
10. Tape and fill the joints, let each coat dry, apply further coats and sand smooth.
11. Prime the surface before painting or wallpapering.

• Poorly fixed tracks: the wall shakes and cracks open at the joints
• No sealing tape: sound and vibration travel through the floor and ceiling even with insulation in the wall
• Gaps in the insulation: squashed or badly cut wool reduces sound reduction
• Board edges between studs: unsupported joints flex and crack later
• Rushed jointing: without tape, or without letting coats dry, cracks and patchy shading appear after painting
• Forgotten reinforcement: kitchen units hung straight into plasterboard are an unnecessary risk, and reinforcement has to go in before boarding, not after

• The wall is plumb and shows no noticeable waves under a long straightedge
• It does not move or creak when you push it firmly by hand
• Joints to the ceiling, floor and side walls are sealed with no visible gaps
• Joints and screw heads cannot be seen after priming, even in side light
• The door frame is solid and the door closes without rubbing
• You have a sketch or photos showing where the reinforcement and cables are