Removing a washbasin

The first step is to turn off the water. The small isolation valves under the basin are usually enough. If they are old, leak or will not turn, the main stopcock for the flat or house is closed instead. In a block of flats it may be necessary to shut off the water for the whole riser. In that case, arrange it in advance with the building management or owners' association so your neighbours know when they will be without water.

Next, the flexible tap hoses are unscrewed from the valves and the trap is disconnected. The trap always holds some water, so a bucket or cloth goes underneath. The waste outlet in the wall is plugged straight away with a bung or at least a rag. Otherwise sewer smells soon start drifting into the bathroom.

Then the fixings are released. A standard wall-hung basin sits on two screws or threaded studs in the wall, sometimes on metal brackets. The silicone seal between the basin and the tiles is cut with a knife first. Only then is the basin carefully lifted off. Finally, if agreed, the wall fixings are removed as well and the basin is taken away.

• Wall-hung basin on screws: the simplest case. Once the water and trap are disconnected, it usually comes off easily.
• Basin with a pedestal or semi-pedestal: the ceramic cover under the basin is either fixed separately or simply rests in place. Take it off first so it does not fall and break.
• Basin on a vanity unit: the unit is usually screwed to the wall and the basin either rests on it or is stuck down with silicone. Both the basin and the unit come out.
• Inset or countertop basin: it is bonded to the worktop with silicone or adhesive. The joint has to be cut carefully, which takes longer.
• Basin built into tiling or a masonry counter: this is already demolition work. It often cannot be done without damaging the surroundings, so plan on replacing some tiles.

If there is a small electric water heater under the basin that is hard-wired rather than plugged into a socket, a qualified electrician must disconnect it.

A fairly modern wall-hung basin with working isolation valves, a plastic trap and good access is straightforward. Older installations bring most of the trouble. In practice it often happens that the valves are furred up with limescale, the wall screws are rusted solid and the trap is clogged with deposits. The screws then have to be cut, the valves replaced, and the job takes longer.

More time is also needed for a basin glued to a worktop, a basin set into tiling, a large double basin or a heavy cast stone piece. It also matters whether the old basin has to be taken away and disposed of, whether the tiles must be kept intact, and whether the waste and supply pipes should be capped ready for a new basin. If it turns out the pipework inside the wall needs replacing, that is plumbing work beyond the removal itself. Discuss larger changes to shared pipes in a block of flats with the building management, and if you are remodelling the bathroom, check with your local building authority whether your plans need any approval under local building regulations.

You can take off an ordinary wall-hung basin yourself if you have an adjustable spanner, water pump pliers, a screwdriver, a silicone knife and a bucket. For a heavier basin, ask someone to help you.

1. Close the isolation valves and open the tap to check that no water comes out. If the valves do not hold, close the main stopcock.
2. Put a bucket and a cloth under the trap.
3. Unscrew the flexible hoses from the isolation valves, holding each valve with your other hand so it does not twist in the wall.
4. Loosen the trap nuts, empty the water and pull the trap out of the waste outlet.
5. Plug the waste outlet with a bung or rag to keep smells out.
6. Cut through the silicone seal between the basin and the tiles.
7. Remove the pedestal, or unscrew the vanity unit if there is one.
8. Loosen the nuts on the wall fixings, support the basin and lift it carefully off the studs.
9. Lay the basin on a soft surface so it does not break if you want to reuse it.
10. Turn the main stopcock back on, check that the valves do not leak, and clean any remaining silicone off the wall.

• Water not properly turned off: an old valve that only looks closed is enough to flood the bathroom.
• Levering the basin off by force: if the silicone has not been cut, a piece of tile can easily break off.
• Too much force on the valves: the valve twists in the wall or the thread cracks, and water starts leaking into the masonry.
• Leaving the waste open: sewer smells, and sometimes debris falling into the pipe during later work.
• Underestimating the weight: ceramic is heavy and brittle. If it falls it shatters and can injure your feet.
• Putting the basin in household rubbish: it counts as small-scale construction waste and usually goes to a household waste recycling centre, following your local council's rules.

• Isolation valves are closed and do not leak once the main supply is back on
• The waste outlet is plugged and there is no smell from the drain
• Tiles around the basin are not chipped or cracked, or any damage was agreed beforehand
• No dangerous screws or studs are left sticking out of the wall, or they have been removed as agreed
• There is no water under the basin position or on the floor
• Any hard-wired electric water heater was disconnected by an electrician
• The basin, trap and other waste have been taken away or stored as agreed
• The area is ready for the next work or for fitting the new basin