Bespoke Fence Frame Installation

Standard fencing systems come in fixed panel widths and heights. On a flat, regular plot they work well. Problems start when the boundary is not straight or the ground drops noticeably over a few metres. Triangular gaps open up under the fence, panels have to be cut to force a fit, and the result looks improvised.

A bespoke frame is worth considering in these situations:

• The plot has an irregular shape or an angled boundary
• The fence runs along a slope or across uneven ground
• Existing posts or low walls are spaced at different distances
• You want to combine a metal frame with timber, panels or concrete elements
• The fence should match the design of the house, for example with hidden joints or clean, minimal lines

The advantage is that you decide the height, the panel widths, the type of infill and how everything is fixed. A frame that fits the posts exactly spreads the load evenly, and its joints do not work loose as easily as parts that had to be forced into place.

With a bespoke frame every step is adapted to the particular plot, but the logic stays the same:

1. Measuring up. The installer measures the actual post spacing, height differences and angles. On a complicated boundary it is worth having a surveyor set out the property line precisely.
2. Checking the posts. Posts must be plumb, at the right height and set in concrete that has cured properly. Frames are usually fitted only after several days; the concrete manufacturer states the exact curing time.
3. Making or adjusting the frames. Frames are made to the measurements. Some details are cut and welded only on site.
4. Fixing and aligning. The frame is attached to the posts with bolts, brackets or by welding. Level, height and the line with neighbouring panels are checked as the work goes on.
5. Treating the joints. Every cut or weld has to be cleaned and protected. Galvanised steel gets zinc-rich paint; a powder-coated frame gets touch-up paint in the same colour.
6. Preparing for the infill. The infill must sit in the frame without strain. If it is forced in, the frame will distort over time.

Most frames are made of steel. It is strong and easy to cut and weld, so angled or stepped shapes are simple to produce. Without protection, though, it rusts, which is why the finish matters: hot-dip galvanising, powder coating, or both. A well-protected steel frame lasts many years with little maintenance.

Aluminium is lighter and naturally resists corrosion. It suits modern fences with slats or panels, and places where you do not want to put a heavy structure on the posts. It is harder to adjust on site, however, so measurements for aluminium need to be very accurate.

The infill decides both the look and the privacy. Common options are metal mesh or panels, timber or composite slats, or a mix. With tall, solid infill, think about wind: a closed surface acts like a sail, and the posts and their foundations have to be designed for that load.

There are two ways to deal with a slope. With a stepped fence the frames stay horizontal and each panel sits a little lower than the one before. It looks neat and technical, but it leaves stepped gaps underneath, which are usually closed with a low plinth wall or gravel boards.

With a raked fence that follows the ground, the frames are made as parallelograms angled to match the slope. The line of the fence looks softer and the gap underneath stays even. They take more work to make, because each panel may have a different angle.

Why do posts on a slope need so much attention? Soil there creeps slowly and water runs along the foundations. Post footings should go below the local frost depth, which depends on your climate, so check local guidance or ask the installer. For heavier fences or unstable ground, footings are made deeper or a continuous strip foundation is used.

How much work the installation takes, and so how much it costs, depends mainly on:

• The panel shape: a rectangle is simple, angled and stepped panels need more measuring and adjusting
• The slope of the ground and the number of height changes
• How accurate the posts are: crooked or unevenly spaced posts mean each frame has to be adjusted on its own
• How much welding and joint treatment has to be done on site
• Access: a narrow strip next to the neighbour, a slope with no vehicle access or dense shrubs all slow the work down
• The weight of the frames and infill: heavy parts need more people or lifting equipment

Good preparation saves the most. If the posts are set exactly to plan, the frames can be made in the workshop in advance and simply fixed in place on site.

• Frames are made to the drawing, not to the posts as actually installed
• Frames are fitted to fresh concrete and the posts move when the fixings are tightened
• Footings are too shallow and the fence leans after the first winter
• Welds and cuts on galvanised steel are left untreated and start to rust within a few years
• Stepped and raked panels are mixed on a slope with no clear logic
• Solid infill goes on a tall fence without checking the wind load

In practice, problems often do not show straight away. The fence looks fine, but a year later loose joints or rust spots appear where it was welded.

• All frames are level or follow one consistent slope, with no visible jumps
• The gaps between frames and posts are even
• The gap under the fence is even and matches what was agreed
• The posts are plumb and do not move when you push them
• Bolted joints are tight and welds are continuous
• All cuts and welds are treated with zinc-rich paint or touch-up paint
• The infill sits in the frame without strain and does not bend it
• The fence stands on your side of the surveyed boundary
• You have a written guarantee and care instructions for the finish