Installation of Fence Posts up to 2.4 m Height

1. Set out the fence line with a taut string and pegs, measure the spacing between posts and note any changes in ground level.
2. Dig the hole by hand, with an auger or with a small machine, to a depth that suits the post height and the soil.
3. Put a layer of gravel in the bottom and compact it so water can drain away.
4. Stand the post in the hole, check it with a spirit level on two adjacent faces and fix it with braces.
5. Pour the concrete in layers and rod or tamp each layer so no air pockets remain.
6. Check again that the post is plumb and at the right height against the string before the concrete starts to set.
7. Shape the top of the concrete so it slopes slightly away from the post and water runs off.
8. Let the concrete cure before fitting the infill.

For a post up to 2.4 m, the hole is usually around 60 to 80 cm deep. Ideally it should reach below the local frost depth, which varies a great deal from region to region. If you are unsure, ask a local builder or your local building authority.

Why does spacing matter so much? With panel fences, the distance between posts must match the panel size exactly, otherwise the panel will not fit. With mesh, posts are usually spaced roughly 2 to 2.5 m apart. The heavier or more solid the infill, the closer together the posts should stand, because a solid fence catches far more wind.

Before you order, check whether "2.4 m" means the full length of the post or only the part above ground. A good part of the post ends up in the concrete. Taller posts (around 2.7 m or 3.8 m) follow the same steps but need deeper, wider foundations and stronger sections, and at the upper end the post sizes should come from the fence system manufacturer or a designer.

Steel posts are the most common. They are light, quick to install and, when hot-dip galvanised or powder coated, resist corrosion well. They suit both mesh and panel fences.

Precast concrete posts are solid and durable but heavy to handle. They are typical for concrete gravel boards and slotted concrete fences.

Timber posts suit lower garden fences. Timber set straight into concrete or soil tends to rot at ground level over time, so a metal post shoe or bolt-down base is a sensible choice.

For posts of this height, concrete of class C16/20 to C20/25 is usually enough. For a few posts, bagged dry mix or post-fix concrete is practical. For a long fence, a mixer or ready-mixed concrete saves a lot of work. Stick to the water ratio given by the manufacturer: concrete that is too wet ends up weaker.

The easiest case is loose soil on level ground with good access. The job takes longer, and so costs more, when there is:

• Stony or rocky ground that has to be broken up or drilled by machine
• Clay, waterlogged or made-up ground that needs a deeper and wider foundation
• A slope, where each post has a different height and must be set out individually
• Tree roots, old foundations or remains of a previous fence
• Poor access, so concrete has to be wheeled a long way

Before digging, find out whether any underground services run along the fence line. Utility companies can provide plans or information on cables and pipes. If you hit a gas pipe or smell gas while digging, stop work at once, move away from the area and call the gas emergency line or 112. Repairs are a job for a qualified, registered gas engineer.

• A hole that is too shallow: frost lifts the post and it starts to lean after the first winter
• Checking plumb from one side only: the post looks straight from the front but leans sideways
• No bracing: the post moves while the concrete sets and cannot be corrected afterwards
• Runny or poorly compacted concrete with voids that cracks over time
• Concrete finished as a dish around the post: water collects, freezes and damages the foundation
• Fitting panels or tensioning mesh the very next day
• Pouring concrete in frost or heavy rain

A handy homeowner can manage posts of this height on normal ground, as long as there is a helper and no rush. Before you start, check with your local building authority whether your fence needs approval. Rules often depend on height, position and whether the fence runs along a road or a boundary. In a flat or a shared property, also ask the building management or owners' association.

1. Check the planning rules and find out where underground services run.
2. Stretch a string between the end posts and mark the positions of the others.
3. Dig a hole usually 60 to 80 cm deep and about 20 to 30 cm wide.
4. Tip about 10 cm of gravel into the bottom and tamp it down.
5. Stand the post in the hole and, with your helper, level it on two faces.
6. Fix two battens as diagonal braces into the ground.
7. Pour the concrete in layers and rod each layer with a bar.
8. Check plumb and height against the string.
9. Smooth the top so it falls away from the post.
10. Wait at least several days before fitting the infill, ideally a week with standard concrete.

• Every post is plumb when checked with a spirit level on two faces
• Post tops are in line and at the planned height
• Spacing matches the infill, exactly to size for panels
• The post does not move when pushed by hand and the concrete around it is not cracked
• The concrete surface falls away from the post and no water stands next to it
• The area is tidy and surplus soil has been removed as agreed
• You know when the infill can be fitted