Concrete panel fence installation up to 2.4 m

The price list has three separate items: concrete fence installation up to 1.8 m, up to 2.1 m and up to 2.4 m. At first glance the only difference seems to be how many panels go into each post. In practice every extra row of panels changes the structural load, the weight of the parts, the handling on site and the risk during installation.

• A fence up to 1.8 m only partly blocks the view of a standing adult. The posts are shorter and lighter, the footings smaller, and most panels can be fitted from the ground
• A fence up to 2.1 m usually gives full privacy from the street at normal eye level. It can still be built without scaffolding, although the top panels go in above head height
• A fence up to 2.4 m also blocks views from a higher road or a neighbour's raised terrace. The posts are much longer and heavier, the footings must be deeper or wider, the top panels are fitted from scaffolding or with lifting equipment, and the wind pushes on the fence with noticeably more force

Why does wind matter so much? A concrete panel fence is a solid wall with no gaps. The taller it is, the larger the area the wind pushes against, and the longer the lever that carries this force down into the footing. So a 2.4 m fence is not simply a third more stressed than a 1.8 m one. The load at the base of each post grows much more than that. For this reason manufacturers often specify reinforced posts, larger footings or a lower maximum height in open, exposed locations for their tallest configurations.

The 2.4 m version is worth it where the extra height actually solves a problem. If you only want to separate your plot from the neighbour's, 1.8 or 2.1 m is often enough, and you avoid a more demanding installation and a lot of shade in the garden. A tall fence casts a long shadow: on its north side a strip of lawn or flower bed will sit in shade for most of the day, and the same applies to your neighbour's side.

Permission and local rules

Whether a 2.4 m fence needs planning permission, building approval or nothing at all depends on local building regulations and on the exact situation: whether the fence faces a road or public space, stands near a junction where it could block sight lines, lies within a protected or conservation area, or is limited by local planning rules on height and appearance. In many places fences facing the street have lower height limits than those between gardens, and 2.4 m is often above the threshold that can be built without approval. Do not assume it will be fine. Check with your local building or planning authority before you order the materials. If the fence runs along the boundary with a neighbour, it is sensible to agree on it in writing, because a 2.4 m wall changes their light and view.

Boundary and underground services

The boundary should be set out by a surveyor, not estimated from the line of an old fence. With a concrete fence a mistake is not fixed by moving a few posts, it means breaking out footings. Locating underground services is just as important: gas, electricity, water, drainage and telecom cables. The utility companies or a cable locating service can mark them for you, and fence footings go down to the depth where these services commonly lie.

If a gas pipe is damaged during digging or you smell gas, leave the area immediately, do not use naked flames or switch any electrical devices on or off, and call the gas emergency line of your network operator or the emergency number 112. Any work on a gas supply must be done by a qualified, registered gas engineer.

Access, ground and related work

• A clear strip of at least one to two metres along the fence line, free of shrubs, roots and the old fence
• Space for the delivery lorry to unload, ideally close to the fence line, because carrying long posts across the garden is slow and risky
• Exact positions for the gate and the side gate, including the width of each opening and the type of post
• Cable ducts laid before the footings are poured if you plan a gate motor, doorbell, camera or lighting; the actual wiring is done by a qualified electrician
• A decision on who retains the soil, and how, if your ground and your neighbour's are at different levels

Setting out and digging

The installers stretch a string line along the boundary and mark the post positions. Post spacing is not judged by eye: it comes from the panel length of the chosen manufacturer, which is usually around two metres, plus a little play in the grooves. Then the holes for the footings are bored or dug. For a 2.4 m fence a powered earth auger or a digger-mounted auger is normally used, because the holes are deep and there are many of them on a longer run. Footing depth follows the manufacturer's instructions and the ground conditions. It must reach below the local frost depth, which varies by region, and in many areas this means roughly 80 to 100 cm. For the tallest version manufacturers often require deeper or wider footings than for a 1.8 m fence.

Setting the posts in the footings

The end or corner post goes in first. It is stood in the hole, plumbed in both directions with a spirit level, set to height against the string line and concreted in. The other posts follow one by one. A reliable method is to slot the bottom panel between each pair of freshly set posts, or use a spacer batten, so the spacing is exact. For a 2.4 m fence the posts, including the part below ground, are roughly three and a half metres long and heavy, so they are handled by several people or a hydraulic crane arm and propped with braces until the concrete hardens.

An important detail: fresh concrete in the footing cannot yet hold the post against wind or against the pressure of fitting more panels. That is why on the first day only the bottom panel, or perhaps two, usually goes in. The rest is added once the footings have hardened.

Fitting the panels

The first panel is the base or gravel board, which sits partly below ground level and stops dogs and wildlife digging underneath. The other panels are lowered into the grooves from above. Up to about two metres the crew can work from a ladder or the ground. On a 2.4 m fence the top rows are fitted from scaffolding, mobile trestles or with a crane arm. Every panel must sit fully on the one below along its whole length, without tilting and without jamming in the groove. With decorative panels the crew also checks that the pattern lines up and that the face side points the agreed way.

Finishing

Caps are fitted on top of the posts to protect them from water and frost. The ground around the footings is backfilled and shaped so that water drains away from the fence and does not collect against the base panel. Splashes of concrete and mortar are cleaned off the panels while they are still fresh.

Posts

A system includes several types of post, and the count of each needs to be worked out carefully when ordering:

• Intermediate posts with grooves on two opposite sides
• End posts with a groove on one side only, used next to gates and at the end of the run
• Corner posts with grooves at a right angle
• Reinforced posts with a larger cross-section or more steel, offered by some manufacturers specifically for the tallest configurations

For a height of 2.4 m always check the technical data sheet to see which post the manufacturer specifies. A standard post designed for lower fences can bend or crack at the base over time.

Panels and finishes

Panels are usually 25 to 50 cm high and reinforced with steel. You can choose smooth panels, stone, brick or timber effects, and panels decorated on one or both faces. A double-sided finish makes sense on a boundary with a neighbour or along a street, where both sides are on view. The height is built up so that the base panel plus the other rows fits the height of the post above ground. At 2.4 m this means the most rows and therefore the most panels per linear metre of the three variants.

Concrete for the footings

Footings are filled with ready-mixed concrete or concrete mixed on site, in the strength class the fence manufacturer recommends. On a long 2.4 m fence a truck mixer is usually worthwhile, because the volume is large and consistent quality matters more than on a lower fence. Bagged dry mixes are better suited to short sections and repairs.

Surface finish

The concrete can be left natural, treated with an impregnating sealer, or painted with a paint made for concrete and masonry. Painting happens only after the concrete has cured and in dry weather. A sealer reduces water absorption and slows down moss growth on the shaded side, which is more noticeable on a tall fence.

The price per linear metre assumes average conditions. The real effort varies mainly with these factors:

• Level ground and soil that is easy to bore speed the work up considerably, while stony ground, buried rubble or tree roots slow it down
• A slope means stepping the panels, a longer post at every step and more careful measuring
• Good access for a lorry and lifting equipment cuts down handling of the heavy parts, while a narrow passage between houses makes it slow and awkward
• Many corners, bends and short bays mean more panel cutting and more precise measuring
• An old fence that has to be demolished first adds work and waste removal; old fibre-cement panels may contain asbestos and must be removed by a licensed specialist
• At 2.4 m you need scaffolding or a crane arm, a larger crew and a longer wait between pouring the footings and finishing
• Wet ground and rain stop the concrete work, and frost prevents pouring unless special measures are taken

• Shallow or narrow footings: the fence starts to lean after the first winter or a strong wind, and at 2.4 m this happens faster and is more visible than on a lower fence
• Inaccurate post spacing: a panel will not fit the bay, or it has too much play and rattles, and the fix means breaking out a post
• Posts out of plumb: on a tall fence the error grows towards the top and the upper panels jam in the grooves
• Loading the posts with the full height of panels before the concrete has hardened: the post twists or tilts in the footing and never comes back
• Posts meant for a lower height: cracks at the base of the post that start as hairline cracks and gradually widen
• Using the fence as a retaining wall: soil from the neighbour's side pushes on the panels, which bow and crack, because a sectional concrete fence is not designed to hold back earth
• Water standing against the base panel: the panels soak up water, flake in winter and grow moss
• Forgotten cable ducts for the gate: later someone has to dig alongside the finished fence or break into the footings
• Panel edges damaged during unloading and carrying: chipped corners cannot be repaired invisibly on a decorative surface

In practice it often happens that a 2.4 m fence is built exactly like the lower variant, just with more panels. It looks fine for the first few months, and the problem only shows after a few storms.

The installation is done in two phases. In the first, the line is set out, the holes are bored, and the posts are set and concreted in with the bottom panels. In the second, after the concrete has hardened, the upper rows of panels and the caps are added. Several days usually pass between the phases, longer in cold weather, and the exact time depends on the manufacturer's guidance and the temperature. On a 2.4 m fence this wait is not worth cutting short, because the top rows put the greatest leverage on the posts.

On level ground with good access, an experienced crew can set the posts for a typical garden in one to several days, and the whole job including finishing is usually done within one to two weeks. A slope, stony ground or bad weather will stretch this. Concrete keeps gaining strength for several more weeks, so leave painting and heavier loads, such as hanging large planters or leaning materials against the fence, until later.

Installing a 2.4 m fence yourself is not recommended for non-professionals: the parts weigh dozens of kilograms, they are fitted above head height and often from scaffolding, and mistakes in the footings are hard to correct later. You can, however, prepare the site yourself and save the installers time and unnecessary complications.

1. Book a surveyor to set out the boundary and keep the markers clearly visible.
2. Ask the utility companies or a locating service to trace underground services and mark the routes with paint or pegs.
3. Check with your local building or planning authority which rules apply to a fence of this height on your property.
4. Agree with your neighbour on the fence position, a double-sided finish and access from their side during installation.
5. Clear the strip along the fence line of shrubs, roots, stones and rubbish.
6. Take down an old timber or mesh fence, as long as it contains no asbestos, and dispose of the waste.
7. Decide and mark the exact position and width of the gate and side gate.
8. Decide on cables for the gate and lighting and get the ducts ready so the installers can lay them before pouring the footings.
9. Prepare a level, firm area for unloading materials as close to the fence line as possible.

Walk the whole length of the finished fence on both sides, ideally in daylight, with a spirit level and a string line. On a tall fence any deviations show up clearly when you look along the line from one end.

• Posts are plumb in both directions and do not move when you push them
• The top line of the fence is straight, or evenly stepped on a slope
• All panels sit fully on each other along their length, do not rattle and have no excess play in the grooves
• There are no cracks, chipped edges or concrete splashes on panels or posts
• The pattern lines up and the face side points the agreed way
• Caps are fitted on every post
• The ground around the footings is backfilled and slopes water away from the fence
• Gate and side gate openings have the agreed width and the cable ducts are in place
• The fence stands on the surveyed boundary and the contractor has given you details of the system used and the recommended maintenance